Directions -Burn Out

<%@ Language=JavaScript %> Directions -Burn Out

PO Box 14 • Somerset, MA 02726
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Burn-out/Devoré

Please read the directions before beginning.

Burn-out or devoré is typically used on specially constructed composite fabrics. These are fabrics composed of cellulose/synthetic blends or cellulose/protein blends. During the burn-out process the cellulose fibers are physically burned out of the composite fabric with acid, leaving the rest of the fabric intact. Cut velvet is an example of burn-out. It is important to sample before working on large projects. This recipe makes 1 quart (1 liter) of burn-out paste. For additional information visit our web site at

Never use dye utensils for food preparation.

While working with sodium bisulfate it is important to wear; a dust/mist respirator, rubber gloves, safety goggles, and an apron or old clothes. Avoid contact with skin or eyes. Keep container tightly closed and do not store where exposed to moist conditions or near strong alkalies.

Supplies
Sodium bisulfate
Synthrapol
Guar gum
PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash
Glycerin

Equipment
Blender or hand mixer

Procedure
1. Scour the fabric by machine washing in HOT 140^oF (60^oC) water, or by hand in a pot on the stove with ½ tsp (2 gm) PRO Dye Activator and ½ tsp (2.5 ml) Synthrapol per pound of fabric (454 gm, or 3 to 4 yards cotton muslin, or 8 yards 8mm China Silk, or 3 Medium T-shirts, or 1 sweatshirt). Rinse thoroughly. This step does not add the dye fixative to the fabric; it prepares your fabric for dyeing by removing any dirt, oil or sizing.

2. Mix the thickener paste a few hours, or even the day before you need to use it. In a large plastic or stainless steel bowl, measure 2 cups (500 ml) of room temperature 75^o to 95^oF (24^o to 35^oC) water. In a separate dry container measure a 1/3 cup (50 gm) of guar gum. Using a blender or hand mixer, start blending just the water, then gradually add the guar gum. Continue blending until well mixed. Allow to stand several hours or overnight for a smooth paste.

3. Make the burn-out paste just before you are ready to use it. Measure ¾ cup plus 2 Tbl (220 ml) of 100^oF (38^oC) water and dissolve ½ cup (200 gm) of sodium bisulfate in the water. Remember to always add the acid to the water, as a safety precaution. Once the sodium bisulfate is dissolved, add a cup (80 ml) of glycerine and the thickener paste made in step 2. Mix thoroughly using your blender or hand mixer. Discard the burn out paste after three days.

4. Prepare a padded surface to print on. If you do not have a padded print table, you can create a padded surface by laying down a terry cloth towel on your work table and taping it in place with masking tape. Cover the terry cloth towel with plastic or a canvas drop cloth. Then secure your fabric with masking tape on the plastic, or with T-pins on the canvas drop cloth.

5. Apply the burn-out paste to your fabric. You can screen print, stencil, or apply the burn-out paste freehand, with a foam or bristle brush. Make sure the burn-out paste penetrates through to the back of the fabric. The best paste penetration is achieved by screen printing, followed by stenciling, and then freehand applications. When working on silk/rayon velvet, it is best to print on the back side of the fabric rather than the pile. It is important to sample your method of application before working on large projects, to make sure the fabric will burn-out successfully.

6. Allow the fabric to air dry thoroughly. You can also speed up the drying by using a hair dryer.

7. Burn-out the cellulose fibers with an iron heated to cotton setting. Bring your cloth to the ironing board and place a press cloth over the printed and dried fabric. Slowly move the iron over the fabric for 3-5 minutes (up to 10 minutes for heavy fabric) or until the fibers begin to turn a medium brown color. Don't overheat the burn-out areas to a black color, otherwise you run the risk of permanently discoloring the fabric.

8. Carefully remove the burned out (carbonized) areas of your fabric by one of the methods listed below. This part can be messy, so work outside if possible and always wear a cartridge respirator to avoid inhaling the small fibers.

    1. Gently hand wash the fabric.
    2. Gently brush off the burned out fiber by hand.
    3. Use a small hand held vacuum.

9. Wash thoroughly with warm 110^oF (44^oC) water by hand or machine wash on gentle cycle with ½ tsp (2.5ml) Synthrapol per pound (454 gm) of fabric. Rinse thoroughly and hang to dry.

Things to try:
Keep in mind that burn-out is not restricted to composite fabrics, but can also be done on pure cellulose.

Machine embroider a cellulose and synthetic or a cellulose and protein fabric on top of each other. Complete the burn-out process following Steps 5 through 9.

Use acrylic gel medium and glue a cellulose and synthetic or a cellulose and protein fabric on top of each other. Complete the burn-out process following Steps 5 through 9.