PRO H-Reactive Dye (powder)
Urea
PRO Chem Flakes
Synthrapol
Metaphos (optional, but use if you have hard water)
PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash
Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate)
Corn Dextrin
Zinc Oxide
Arabic Gum powder (available from Albert Uster Imports at 1-800-231-8154)
Sodium Acetate (when working on silk fabrics)

Procedure

1. Scour the fabric by machine washing in HOT 140F (60C) water, or by hand in a pot on the stove with ½ tsp (2 gm) PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash and ½ tsp Synthrapol per pound of fabric (454 gm, 3 to 4 yards cotton muslin, 8 yards 8mm China Silk, 3 Medium T-shirts, or 1 sweatshirt). Rinse thoroughly, dry and iron as necessary.

2. Make the Corn Dextrin Resist. Heat water till boiling. This can also be done in a microwave. Measure 500 ml of boiling water into a microwave safe container. Measure 500 gm of corn dextrin. Slowly sift the dextrin into the water while stirring constantly with a whisk or electric mixer. The dextrin should have the look and viscosity of honey.

500 ml water
500 gm Corn Dextrin

3. Make the White Resist. Heat water till boiling. Measure 370 ml of boiling water into a microwave safe container. Add 260 gm of Arabic Gum powder; stir thoroughly. Measure 260 gm of Corn Dextrin resist from Step #2 above and stir thoroughly. Add 110 gm Zinc Oxide powder and blend well.

370 ml of boiling water
260 gm of Arabic Gum powder
260 gm of Corn Dextrin resist
110 gm zinc oxide powder

4. Make the Color Resist. Mix together the following ingredients. This recipe will make approximately 1 quart (1 liter) of Color Resist. Increase or decrease the ingredients proportionately for the quantities needed to complete your project.

Color Resist for Cellulose Fibers:

40gm, 60 gm or 80 gm H dye powder (depending upon whether you want a pale, medium, or dak shade)
30 gm of Urea
50 ml water 176F - 196F (80C - 90C)
805gm, 785gm or 765 gm White Resist (from Step #3 above and depending upon whether you want a pale, medium, or dark shade))
60 gm PRO Chem Flakes
15 gm baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)

Color Resist for Silk Fibers:

40 gm H Dye powder
30 gm Urea
50 ml water 176F - 196F (80C - 90C)
800 gm White Resist (from Step #3 above)
60 gm PRO Chem Flakes
20 gm Sodium Acetate

5. Printing with the Color Resist. You can apply this resist by Hand Painting, Stamping, Stenciling or Screen Printing. Once the fabric is dry, set the color by steaming.

6. Steam fixing. Loosely roll the fabric, jelly roll fashion, in between a piece of muslin, blank newsprint, or non fusible pellon, so patterned surface does not come in contact with itself. Then roll the tube lengthwise, like a cinnamon roll, and tie loosely to secure the shape. Place the rolled fabric in the steamer and steam for 30 minutes. Add more boiling water as needed.

7. Rinse the fabric. After setting the dye, rinse fabric thoroughly in a bucket of room temperature 75 to 95F (24 to 35C) water. Change the water 3 to 4 times. Then wash with very HOT 140F (60C) water adding ½ tsp (2 ml) Synthrapol per pound (454 gm) of fabric. Rinse well and dry. Black and very dark colors may need a second HOT Synthrapol wash.

NOTE: You can use the White Resist on its own as a clear resist, without adding color to it.

© Copyright 2000
Directions courtesy of Linda Lewis.